The Imperial Cocktail
How the gin and tonic became the British Empire’s secret
weapon.
. . . In the 17th century, the Spanish had discovered that
indigenous peoples in what is now Peru used a kind of bark to address various
“fevers.” Stripped from the cinchona tree, the bark seemed to work well for
malaria. The “Jesuit’s bark,” as it was known, quickly became a favored
treatment for malaria in Europe. (Before the discovery of the cinchona tree,
European malaria remedies included throwing the patient head-first into a bush
in the hope he would get out quickly enough to leave his fever behind.)
Eventually it became clear that cinchona bark could be used
not only to treat malaria, but also to prevent it. The bark—and its active
ingredient, quinine powder—was a powerful medicine. But it was also a powerful
new weapon in the European quest to conquer and rule distant lands.
Quinine powder quickly became critical to the health of the
empire. By the 1840s British citizens and soldiers in India were using 700 tons
of cinchona bark annually for their protective doses of quinine. Quinine powder
kept the troops alive, allowed officials to survive in low-lying and wet
regions of India, and ultimately permitted a stable (though surprisingly small)
British population to prosper in Britain’s tropical colonies. Quinine was so
bitter, though, that British officials stationed in India and other tropical
posts took to mixing the powder with soda and sugar. “Tonic water,” of a sort,
was born.
Still, tonic water was basically a home brew until an
enterprising Brit named Erasmus Bond introduced the first commercial tonic
water in 1858—perhaps not coincidentally, the very same year the British
government ousted the East India Co. and took over direct control of India,
following the so-called Sepoy Mutiny, a violent rebellion and counterattack.
Bond’s new tonic was soon followed by Schweppes’
introduction, in 1870, of “Indian Quinine Tonic,” a product specifically aimed
at the growing market of overseas British who, every day, had to take a
preventative dose of quinine. Schweppes and other commercial tonics proliferated
both in the colonies and, eventually, back in Britain itself.
Gin, which in earlier days had been associated with vice and
social decay among the lower classes in Britain—take a look at William
Hogarth’s famous print Gin Lane for a taste—was by the 19th century making its
long march toward respectability. It was only natural that at some point during
this time an enterprising colonial official combined his (or her) daily dose of
protective quinine tonic with a shot (or two) of gin. Rather than knock back a
bitter glass of tonic in the morning, why not enjoy it in the afternoon with a
healthy gin ration?
Read the entire article and watch this video on how to make
the world’s best Gin & Tonic:
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